reduce-heating-bills

Reduce Your Heating Bills This Winter

Imagine leaving a window open all winter long — the heat loss, cold drafts and wasted energy! If your home has a folding attic stair, fireplace or clothes dryer, that may be just what is occurring in your home every day.

These often overlooked sources of heat loss and air leakage can cause heat to pour out and the cold outside air to rush in — costing you higher heating bills.

Air leaks are the largest source of heating and cooling loss in the home. Air leaks occur through the small cracks around doors, windows, pipes, etc. Most homeowners are well aware of the benefits caulk and weatherstripping provide to minimize heat loss and cold drafts.

But what can you do about the three largest “holes?in your home — the folding attic stair, the fireplace and the clothes dryer? Here are some tips and techniques that can easily, quickly and inexpensively seal and insulate these holes.

Attic Stairs

new-attic-stairsWhen attic stairs are installed, a large hole (approximately 10 square feet) is created in your ceiling. The ceiling and insulation that were there have to be removed, leaving only a thin, unsealed, sheet of plywood.Your attic space is ventilated directly to the outdoors. In the winter, the attic space can be very cold, and in the summer it can be very hot. And what is separating your conditioned house from your unconditioned attic? That thin sheet of plywood.Often a gap can be observed around the perimeter of the door.

Try this yourself: at night, turn on the attic light and shut the attic stairway door — do you see any light coming through? These are gaps add up to a large opening where your heated/cooled air leaks out 24 hours a day. This is like leaving a window open all year round.An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add an attic stair cover. An attic stair cover provides an air seal, reducing the air leaks. Add the desired amount of insulation over the cover to restore the insulation removed from the ceiling.

Fireplaces

Sixty-five percent, or approximately 100 million homes, in North America are constructed with wood or gas burning fireplaces. Unfortunately, there are negative side effects that the fireplace brings to a home especially during the winter home-heating season. Fireplaces are energy losers.

Researchers have studied this to determine the amount of heat loss through a fireplace, and the results are amazing. One research study showed that an open damper on an unused fireplace in a well-insulated house can raise overall heating energy consumption by 30 percent.A recent study showed that for many consumers, their heating bills may be more than $500 higher per winter due to the air leakage and wasted energy caused by fireplaces. Why does a home with a fireplace have higher heating bills? chimney-ballon-300x300Hot air rises. Your heated air leaks out any exit it can find, and when warm heated air is drawn out of your home, cold outside air is drawn in to make up for it. The fireplace is like a giant straw sucking the heated air from your house.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a fireplace draft stopper. Available from Battic Door, a company known for their energy conservation products, a fireplace draft stopper is an inflatable pillow that seals the damper, eliminating any air leaks. The pillow is removed whenever the fireplace is used, then reinserted after.

If you need to keep warm and the fireplace is out of action as a result of the draft stopper then you can always use a portable infrared space heater which can be very helpful in warding off the chill. There is lots of information available about space heaters but if you are interested this is a good resource on infrared heaters in particular.

Clothes Dryer Exhaust Ducts

clothes-dryer-exhaust-ductsIn many homes, the room with the clothes dryer is the coldest room in the house. Your clothes dryer is connected to an exhaust duct that is open to the outdoors. In the winter, cold air leaks in through the duct, through your dryer and into your house.Dryer vents use a sheet-metal flapper to try to reduce this air leakage. This is very primitive technology that does not provide a positive seal to stop the air leakage. Compounding the problem is that over time, lint clogs the flapper valve causing it to stay open.

An easy, low-cost solution to this problem is to add a dryer vent seal. This will reduce unwanted air infiltration, and keep out pests, bees and rodents as well. The vent will remain closed unless the dryer is in use. When the dryer is in use, a floating shuttle rises to allow warm air, lint and moisture to escape.

Originally posted 2016-04-12 12:07:22.

furnace

Buying A Furnace

The Mechanics of Buying A Furnace

You cannot shop for a furnace the way you shop for a camera or a pair of shoes. There are no “furnace stores” where the different makes and models can be examined, compared, and priced. So what are the steps to take when buying a furnace?

To get first-hand information on the different makes and models available, you will have to contact a number of heating firms. Ask them for the manufacturers’ illustrated sales literature on the furnaces they sell and install. You should also contact your local gas utility or a local contractor for assistance and information.

Your utility can usually provide information on the cost of purchasing, renting, or installing furnaces and the estimated seasonal heating costs of the type of equipment you plan to use. If you have decided on a particular type of furnace, read the literature carefully to find out if it describes the features you are looking for—such as a condensing heat exchanger, a commutating motor and direct drive for the circulating fan, etc.

furnace-installationAlso look for the EnerGuide rating. This is the seasonal efficiency (AFUE) rating, not just the steady-state efficiency. Make sure you distinguish between the two types of ratings.

As previously mentioned, conventional and mid-efficiency gas furnaces do not run at their maximum efficiency if they are oversized; conversely, a condensing gas furnace can be more efficient if slightly oversized.

A heating contractor cannot determine the size of furnace you need just by walking through your house. The “size” of furnace means the heat output from it after it is running in steady-state operation. If you are replacing an existing gas furnace, the output of that furnace will give only a rough idea of the maximum size you should consider.

A further complicating factor is that many existing gas furnaces were nearly always rated and labelled on heat input rather than output, so you must subtract at least 22 percent from the labelled size to get the maximum existing output of that unit. On the other hand, your new gas furnace will be rated according to its heat output.

The contractor will have to calculate the heating requirement of your house using either the fuel consumption of your present furnace over a known heating period (after other gas use is factored out, such as for the water heater and kitchen range) or by making a thorough measurement and examination of your house to determine size, insulation levels, and degree of tightness of the house envelope. If the contractor does not show any interest in any of the above facts, then his or her calculation of the correct size for your new furnace is simply a “guesstimate.”

To make sure proper furnace sizing is determined, the quotation and contract should include a statement similar to the following: “The furnace size will be determined by a heat loss calculation using the formulas published by the Canadian Gas Association (CGA), the Heating, Refrigerating and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI), the Canadian Standards Association (CSA), Natural Resources Canada (NRCan), the electrical utility, or other recognized organizations. A copy of these calculations will be given to the homeowner.”

It is important to hire a contractor who will install your equipment properly to ensure that it will operate efficiently. Check with your local gas utility or provincial gas regu-latory office to find out how to get in touch with a fully qualified, registered or licensed contractor.

If your neighbours have had similar work done recently, ask them how satisfied they were with their contractor. If you are buying a relatively new type of furnace design, try to get the name of other homeowners who have had such equipment installed to find out about the appliance’s performance and the workmanship of the installer.

Before you decide what to buy, obtain firm, written bids from several companies on the cost of buying and installing a complete new unit, along with any other fittings and adjustments required, including changes to any ductwork or piping and a final balancing of the heat supply to the house.

Remember that a building permit may be required for this type of work, and the contract should state whether the installer or the homeowner is responsible for obtaining it.

Checklist for Having a Natural Gas Heating System Installed

You should get several estimates on the work to be done. When you are comparing these estimates, cost will be an important factor, but there are other considerations involved. Some contractors may be better at explaining what has to be done. Some may use higher quality components, and others may schedule the work at your convenience.

Estimates should include the following items:

  1. The total cost for all necessary work.
  2. An itemized list of all material and labour costs included in the bid; alteration or improvement of existing heat distribution ducts; installation of furnace and gas supply piping and ductwork; installation of water heater and vent (where applicable); installation of chimney liner and any attendant masonry work; and additional equipment such as the installation of gas appliances, humidifiers, air cleaners or air conditioners.
  3. A statement describing how much existing equipment will be used in the new system.
  4. A rough diagram showing the layout of ductwork or water pipes and the location of supply piping and heating equipment.
  5. A statement that clearly defines who is responsible for: – all necessary permits and payment of related fees – on-site inspections by the utility – scheduling of all other required work by the utility, such as supply pipe installation and hookup – removal of any existing equipment that will not be used with the new system – all related costs, such as subcontracts with tradespeople.
  6. A clear estimate of when the work will be completed.
  7. A warranty for materials and labour.
  8. A schedule and method of payment.

Ask contractors for the names of homeowners for whom they have done similar work. The Better Business Bureau will know if the contractor is a member and whether any recent complaints have been filed against him or her. Your local Chamber of Commerce or Board of Trade may also be able to help.

The contractor installing the heating system may be able to install additional gas-fired appliances for a favourable price at the same time the heating system is set up. This work can often be undertaken without duplication of the inspections, permits, and the labour associated with such jobs.

Some utilities or dealers will also offer rental of heating equipment or lease-to-purchase plans. You may find it advantageous to participate in one of these plans rather than to purchase the equipment outright.

Do not hesitate to ask the contractor for a clear explanation of any aspect of the work before, during, or after the installation of your heating system.

Originally posted 2016-04-12 11:53:42.